On the transformation of long gravity waves on a sloping beach:
The transformation of long water waves arriving at a sloping beach is investigated. An approximate theory is presented for plane periodic waves propagating in water of non-uniform depth. The theoretical description of the phenomenon, based on certain kinematic assumptions, is formulated in the mater...
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| Principais autores: | , |
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| Formato: | Artigo |
| Idioma: | Inglês |
| Publicado em: |
Institute of Oceanology of the Polish Academy of Sciences
2010-09-01
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| coleção: | Oceanologia |
| Assuntos: | |
| Acesso em linha: | http://www.iopan.gda.pl/oceanologia/52_3.html#A3 |
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